I have no idea what it feels to work on a route for the first ascent and then have some other climber come in and steal my glory. Climbing is too much fun to be reduced to glory and first ascents. I'm not into climbing for first ascents - I go for red point, self humiliation through falling, adventure, fun, friendship and sometimes injuries. And that's substantial stuff!
However I do have a slight idea about how Nalle felt when he was asked not to climb First Round First Minute. He got all excited and said something like: "Oh sure, Chris! I don't have any problem with you supposedly being the best climber in the world and not letting anyone to try your world class projects (Jumbo Love included) because you wanna have the first ascent and because the guys from Big Up did so much video shooting that would be embarrassing not to have the complete ascent footage. And then of course why should we let the world feel that other strong climbers are rising when in fact there is just one guy who's the strongest and that's you, Chris. I'd love to let you have all the first ascents until you will be kind and generous (as many strong climbers are) as to let others (if not invite them) to come and climb on your projects before you actually complete them.
I know that this is not a competition and I guess it's normal to ask others not to climb on a certain route because you've put so much passion and work into it (unlike us who flash everything in contempt) and it's simply not fair that others may have a chance of working hard on the same route that you are working on. That would be a sacrilege!
I'm sure that Jean-Christophe Lafaille would have asked you to leave Biographie untouched when you started working on it but I guess he was on vacation or something. You would have been totally okay with that - you're a great guy (unlike many of us who have the audacity of meddling with your projects).
I mean, it's like in business. If a company made billions in profit and for some reason got greedy or foolish and started sinking, going bankrupt and all that then it's normal for kiss ass governments to help those companies by bailing them out with taxpayer's money. Why let new companies grow and show they got the chops?! That's just silly! (Smother them with taxes and help the big guys!)
So Chris, you go on and conquer what you have to conquer. I guess I could knock myself out elsewhere.
You take care now and make sure to have the first ascent title superimposed on the video. That would totally make sense!
And don't fear of being accused of red tagging. Coz red tagging means hanging a red sling in the first bolt of a climbing route as to tell other climbers that the route is reserved for the guy who bolted it. You never did that. By merely asking people not to climb on your routes you have nothing to do with red tagging. It's just standard procedure in our world, right?
I'll definitely remember this as a joyful experience. Cheers!"
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