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This article is from a series that teaches you how to build your climbing fingerboard.
One of the biggest problems we humans face is our own sloth. And I make no exception. That's why it's important to create a framework and a set of rules to be guided by if you want to follow through with your climbing training.
If you don't have the time or the tools to build your DIY hangboard, have a look on Amazon for a selection of affordable climbing fingerboards. Click any of the pictures below.
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For me personally, there are periods when I'm motivated to climb hard and train meticulously and times when I'm like Meh...whetever... The funny thing is, even when I'm motivated I tend to slide into sloth (yeah, this human side of me pisses me off!).
So here are my tips for a solid fingerboard workout:
1. Use printed training schemes
It's simple. You see what you have to do and that keeps you going. You're simply tricking yourself to train by having a concrete plan in front of you - you're much more likely to follow it coz as you stare at the plan, the plan stares back and makes you responsible.
Design your own hangboard training schemes if what you find out there doesn't work for you. There is no right or wrong here. Choose what's best for you and stick to it.
2. Use a wall clock
If for some reason you don't wanna train with printed schemes, then the wall clock is the next best thing.
You can set out to do easy exercises with time constrains like:
- Stay 2 minutes on the board and only hold medium crimpers and the large flat edge for resting
- Do 10 slow pull ups on medium crimpers during 1 minute or more.
- Hang in two finger pockets for 30 seconds in a 90 degree elbow lock off
- etc.
Time may be a better measure of your training than the actual number of pull ups, shrugs or lock offs.
Why?
Coz when you're out there climbing onsight, you don't do pull ups while figuring out the next few moves. You may hang there a few minutes before moving on and thus you have to master an equation that involves energy management against time.
If you stay too long to rest, you'll get pumped. But if the route is intricate you have to stay longer to think before each crux and that's why a training based on time spent on the hangboard (or indoor wall) may be better than a training based on the sheer number of moves.
Tip: If you don't have a wall clock, use your laptop or iPad and access http://analog.onlineclock.net/. We're techy, aren't we? :-)
3. Use slings for monos and two finger pockets
It makes no sense to injure yourself during training. Basically each time you're training you're only allowed to push for more volume and occasionally for intensity but only if it is safe.
Be aware though, doing too much volume may lead to overtraining and fatigue.
Hanging in monos (one finger holds) or two finger pockets can count as intensity training. So, to avoid the risk of injury, look for a finger friendly solution.
I like to use slings for training purposes. I simply hang them on the medium crimpers and when I load them with my body weight, the friction on the hold is enough to keep them in place. When climbing on rock faces, I prefer to tape my middle finger and ring finger.
Climbing is a commitment sport and training is ultra specific. However, if you approach it methodically and gradually increase your workout tasks you'll find it quite fun.
Remember to do a thorough warm up before each fingerboard session. Also combine your climbing training with an aerobic activity like cycling or running. It'll do wonders for your general fitness and your climbing endurance will inevitably improve.
Happy biceps to you!
Thanks for stopping by! Share this article with your friends.
thank for the concise and brilliant idea.
ReplyDelete:-) You're welcome!
ReplyDeleteGreat post on finger strength.
ReplyDeleteCheers, Jolie!
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