How To Bulid Your Own Hangboard - Training for Climbing

Everything about building a hangboard + training plans now in my guide:
How To Build Your Own DIY Climbing Hangboard without Drilling The Wall Above Your Doorway

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DIY Climbing Hangboard - Fingerboard

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DIY climbing Fingerboard

If you don't have the time ot the tools to build your DIY hangboard, have a look on Amazon for a selection of affordable climbing fingerboards. Click any of the pictures below.
Resin Climbing Hangboard by Metolius
The Bomb Hangboard
Metolius Wood Grips Climbing Training Fingerboard

Update: Check out my latest DIY climbing hangboard video tutorial.

I preferred to build my own fingerboard versus buying one from a mountain shop. The main reason for this is I could customize it how I wanted in terms of dimensions and holds placement.

What you will get is basically a piece of an artificial climbing wall on which you can do all your training exercises: pull ups, shrugs, dead hangs, lock offs. Whenever you get bored with your current holds arrangement you can easily change the configuration and thus you'll have a new board being motivated to try new workout sessions.

Necessary tools and materials:
  • electric drill
  • jigsaw
  • hammer
  • drill bits for wood and concrete
  • 4 long bolts to go through wall (10 or 12 mm diameter)
  • sandpaper
  • glue
  • T nuts
  • plywood
  • 2 laths (will be glued on the plywood board)
  • a free doorway (make sure your folks/room mates/spouse knows about your plans of drilling the wall above the door frame - and of course tell them you will be hanging there regularly)
Steps for mounting your hang board:
  • saw the plywood to your desired dimensions - a rectangle that will fit above the door jamb
  • smoothen the edges of the board with sandpaper
  • saw the laths no longer than the height of your board
  • glue the laths on the board - each lath at a palms' distance from the edge of the board, parallel to the margins of the plywood
  • drill your board for the T nuts - make sure to drill it from front and have holes in a zigzag pattern - if diameter of cylindrical part of the T nuts is 11 mm then use an 11 mm drill for wood
  • turn the board front down and hammer the T nuts into the new holes - after this you can already place holds if you like
  • turn the board with front facing upwards and drill four holes (10 or 12 mm diameter) through plywood and laths - these holes will serve for mounting the board on the wall above the doorway
  • put the long concrete drill bit onto your electric drill, turn the hammering option on
  • ask someone to help you from now on
  • grab two chairs, get on them with the board and ask your fellow helper to hold it above the door frame exactly where you want it
  • now you will make your first hole through the wall - pass the drill bit through one of the top holes (left or right) that go through both plywood and lath and start drilling the wall - ask your fellow to hold the board firm and try to keep your drill perpendicular to the board/wall - the main reason for drilling the wall through the pre-drilled holes in the board is to make sure the resulting tunnel (hole in the board and lath + hole in the wall) is in a straight line and thus will neatly accommodate the long bolt
  • after you made the first hole pass the long bolt through the board and the wall - now you won't have to hold the board that much as it will hang from the bolt - however you still need to hold it on the loose side
  • repeat the process of drilling the wall as mentioned above for the other three holes
  • now that you've put in place all four long bolts it's time to go on the other side of the wall (next room) and add some washers and nuts to the bolts - you can use some wooden plates instead of regular metal washers as the wood is softer and thus you won't do too much harm to the plaster
  • add holds as you wish, just like you do it in the climbing gym - work from the front of the board enjoying the convenience of T nut system
  • you are now basically done...
Try to have all types of holds on the board - crimpers, slopers, pinches, monos, two finger pockets, jugs, small ledges - so you can cover all types of exercises that will ultimately make you a stronger climber.

If you don't want to buy too much resin holds, you can make your own out of wood or rocks. This worked just fine for me - I only bought a few slopers, the rest are made of wood and provide both great friction and friendliness to my fingers' skin.

For more information about training for climbing please consult - don't miss the links on nutrition and stretching in the right sidebar. Also you may want to try some hangboard training sessions like this or this.

If you prefer a ready made fingerboard for working your forearms and fingers in order to improve your climbing capabilities then watch Metolius training board installation guide video.

Be a good climber and if you can't be good then be strong. But remember that doing one arm pull ups won't make you champion. Don't forget to go climbing as well!

Train wisely!

Home Made HangboardHome Made Climbing HangboardHangboard for ClimbingFingerboard for Climbing TrainingFingerboard for Climbing TrainingTraining for Climbing on HangboardConstantin Gabor and Climbing FingerboardPull bar and Climbing HangboardClimbing FingerboardClimbing Hangboard

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  1. e super saitul tau imi place  ;) :)

  2. Great article... I'm tempted to do this now.

  3. Do it, Casey.

    You may develop a better design. Shoot me some pics if you build it.

  4. really great article thanks.... quick question, do you think using 12mm ply would be okay instead of 18mm, as I have a lot of 12mm lying around and rather than spending more on new ply, i might just use the 12mm

    I do know that ply is not that expensive, but if i could save some money why not.


  5. Hey Jmac!

    Yes you could use 12 mm plywood as well, if it's strong enough. To make it rigid make sure to have the back rails go across it's height and maybe one rail across its width.

    But there might be a issue with the T nuts: make sure the threaded inner tube of the nuts doesn't stick out of the board. If the board it's too thin this may happen - that's why I recommended 18 mm to 20 or 25 mm thick ply.

    As you tighten the holds, the nuts buries even deeper in the board thus the inner tube getting closer to the face of the board - if it gets out of the board, it means your hold cannot be firmly tighten on the hagboard.

    Not sure if I explained well... Email me if you have other questions.


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