Here is a sleeker design of what can be your universal DIY camera stabilizer.You can mount any type of camera as long as it's not too large or too heavy. While it's also a DIY DSLR steadicam, I would't recommend using cameras heavier than 1.5 kg (3.3 lbs) on this particular rig.
If you necessarily need smooth video with heavier cameras, you can build a more solid version with a thicker threaded rod as a shaft and a sturdier gimbal with larger bearings.
What I did here is I tried to imitate the exact concept in the original Steadicam and that means having a 3 axis DIY ball bearing gimbal. Basically, you isolate the movement of your hand from the camera. The rotation on each axis is done smoothly on bearings.
The gimbal has two bearings on the main shaft which is an advantage compared to my first version (one bearing and PVC pipe rings gimbal). If for some reason, you don't want the shaft to spin too freely around its axis, you can tighten the nuts, that hold the gimbal on the shaft, against each other and adjust the amount of spin.
My bike stunts video - shot with GoPro HD on DIY Stabilizer
A cross element of polypropylene pipe fitting, machine worked to fit the bearings perfectly, a 90 degree piece, an omega cable holder, nuts, bolts and a mountain bike handle grip - the best looking DIY gimbal. :-)
The camera plate can hold any type of camera that has a tripod mount possibility. The GoPro you see here is fixed with a custom mount.
How to shoot video with a DIY glidecam
If there's one thing you should know about shooting video with a camera stabilizer then here it is: you need to train in order to get those smooth shots.
You actually have to work with your steadicam. It's not like it's gonna do the job for you. That's why Garret Brown does those workshops teaching people how to shoot video with his invention. And that's the very same reason highly skilled cameramans and steadicam operators are sought after.
Some words on dynamic balance
This is perhaps the biggest headache for people trying to balance a steadicam. If you get the right droptime (1.5 to 3 seconds) and the upright position of the main shaft this means you've only accomplished static balance.
For dynamic balance you have to adjust the weights and the camera until the main shaft remains vertical even when you're spinning it. In other words, you need to align the center of gravity of the camera right above the shaft.
See the video below for more details - the video starts with dynamic balance explanation at 6:39 min.
If you want to get as close as possible to getting the dynamic balance right, follow these steps:
- hold the steadicam by the gimbal and keep the shaft in horizontal position
- adjust the camera and/or the camera plate until you perfectly align the CG (center of gravity) of the camera with the glidecam shaft
- you need to achieve a neutral state (neutral equilibrium); no matter how you rotate the camera plate, it will remain in the same position (see the video below, that's how I do it)
A trick on how to balance your camera stabilizer
If you wanna take out a variable when it comes to balancing your glidecam, you can add washers as weights on the shaft. So you eliminate the long bottom weight plate and only adjust the camera and the camera plate when balancing the steadicam.
However, for fast movements, this setup tends to pendulum as there's a high concentration of mass in the lower part of the shaft. I personally prefer the weight plate.
What materials you need to build this stabilizer and what is the exact dimension of each piece in the puzzle
Bert asked me (down in the comments) about the specific dimensions of this rig. The truth is, there is no standard as far as I know.
Imagine that even the Steadicam Pilot or the Glidecam 2000 have a telescopic tube as a shaft, thus variable dimensions. Each model comes with weights which you can add in case you place a heavier camera on the top plate. So for any given setup (camera, display, microphone, batteries) the dimensions will be adjusted.
With this DIY stabilizer design, you cannot make the shaft longer so you you raise or lower the CG (center of gravity) by loosening the wing nuts and sliding the weight plates higher or lower. Or by adding and taking weights.
List of materials:
- 50 cm long, 8 mm thick threaded shaft
- 5 ball bearings, 8 mm inner diameter, 22 mm outer diameter
- 1 cross pipe fitting (polypropylene with 3 mm thick wall)
- 1 90° angle piece for the gimbal handle
- 8 mm self locking nuts (5 pieces)
- 8 mm wing nuts (4 pieces)
- 8 mm inner diameter washers (outer diameter may vary, get a lot of these)
- 8 mm split washers - these act as a spring (2 or 4 pieces)
- 8 mm bolts, 4 cm long (3 pieces)
- weight plate
- camera mount made of two plates (see picture below)
- 4 bolts, 6 cm long, 6 mm diameter
- 12 self locking nuts of 6 mm inner diameter (these and the 4 bolts will hold the two plates for the camera)
- a piece of pipe that goes into the 90 degree piece to form the handle
- a bike handlebar grip to cover the pipe/handle (we care about ergonomics, don't we?)
- 10 mm thick bolts as weights (2 pieces), longer or shorter depending on the weight of your camera; buy a few pairs of different lengths
- 10 mm washers (to be used on the 10 mm bolts), buy lots of these if you're planing to use a DSLR with your DIY steadicam
- an omega cable holder to be used as a frame that connects the gimbal to the handle
Please note that as long as you respect the design and the symmetry, you can work with any type of bolts, bearings and so on. Any other design will work fine if it's well built and well balanced (once it has a camera on it).
Also download these drawings in:
- CAD format (.dxf file - CAD Interchange)
- CAD format (.dwg CAD file)
- SVG format
The CAD files might be right format to send out to your local milling and cutting shop.
More about the plates here: DIY camera plate
Want smooth video?
If you're a filmmaker and don't have the time or materials to build one of these, you can buy one. I've been getting requests via email, on YouTube and Vimeo and thus I'd like to help you. This is a sexy new design and I'm not embarrassed with it as I was with my first version. :-)
So if you don't want shaky videos and want to impress your friends and audience with awesome footage, click the button below and get your stabilizer now (worldwide shipping).
Note that the plates and the gimbal are machine worked.
Drop me an email if you're interested and post a comment below for any other technical questions regarding this particular stabilizer or video shooting and editing in general.
Cheers!
PS - Here's my first video I shot with this stabilizer. Some shots were taken with a DIY slider as well - camera used: Sony HX9V.
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First of all, thanks for sharing this design! It looks pretty sharp and functional at the same time.
ReplyDeleteI was just wondering if you could post a list of the materials you used, including dimensions, such as the inner/outer diameter of the bearings (are they standard skateboard bearings?), as well as the size of pipe used.
I'm planning to attempt to put one of these together but I want to make sure that I'm picking up the right sized items. :)
Thanks!
B
Thanks Bert! I updated the article with the info you requested.
ReplyDeleteCheers!
think you could put this design on a longer pole for filming better angles, etc?
ReplyDeleteYup, that's possible but you'll loose some of the control. You need to have your hand just below the gimbal (on the shaft) for soft tilting and panning.
ReplyDeleteIf you have the rig on a long pole, you won't be able to do all that. Basically you have to turn around to change the shooting angle of the camera.
But just to take a few high shots (like you would with a jib crane) - that's possible.
Well done! looks really awsome! thanks for sharing your ideas to save alot of money! :)
ReplyDeleteI would like to know, if exactly this steadycam (with the given material measures) would hold a canon 550d + kit lens etc as well???
thanks,
cheers
Toby
Hey Toby!
ReplyDeleteYup it'll hold a DSLR as well - however to be sure, I'd build it with a 10 mm rod and perhaps a more solid metal bracket (the one that links the handle with the gimbal).
Or you could buy a Flycam - which is the cheapest professional steadicam on the market.
My point is: if you shoot with an expensive camera why not do an extra financial effort and buy a solid stabilizer.
My rig is designed for compacts and small consumer cameras - even though it holds DSLR's as well; any type of camera actually as long as it's not too heavy and has a tripod mount hole.
Hi! I would like to know can this version hold 550D? Maybe i do one for my DSLR. Cheers!
ReplyDeleteYup it holds even the Canon 60D.
DeleteIt just takes a bit longer to balance, unlike with the GoPro or a compact.
Hey I like the design. Im trying to build one myself but I can't find the right skate bearings for the PVC. The one's I have are too small. Any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteTry to find a specialized shop that sells bearings and simply give them the outer and inner measurements of the bearing - they'll get it for you.
DeleteI found this shop online.