Showing posts with label mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mountaineering. Show all posts

How To Travel The World and Climb Your Favorite Mountain Summit - Mammut Peak Project - Contest for Climbers and Mountaineers


Mammut, one of the generous sponsors of Highball Blog celebrates its 150th birthday with 150 peak tours around the world!

They have this big contest going on where you can be part of a team that will climb one of the 150 peaks of the world. All you have to do is follow the links below and apply, stating your expertise as a climber & mountaineer.

I wish you success and a safe return from your peak!

Here's your chance to gain a place in one of the 150 teams heading for the peaks of the world. More than 2.500 people created a virtual mountain in Stage 1 of the biggest peak project in history. With these mountains they applied for the position as a team leader in one of the 150 teams. But to achieve their goal, they needed the support of their friends - which was visualized in a growth of their mountains. All in all over 38.000 people showed their support in the last months.

Now the lucky applicants who have secured the most support for their virtual mountain have entered the “team building stage” where they form their team and plan their tours. Each team will consist of between two and six climbers and one mountain guide.

To become a team member in one of these teams you simply have to join the “Climbers Board” (Link: http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/peaks2/climbers/list ) which is a pool of mountaineers that want to be a part of the 150 peak tours. From there you can apply at the teams or receive invitations from them.

Using various criteria, such as experience, background, project planning, etc., a jury of experts (consisting of experienced specialists from the mountaineering community, Link: http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/peaks2/the-project/how-it-works) selects the final 150 teams for the event itself, due to be held between September 2011 and August 2012.

Success!

4 Essential Ways To Use Slings in Multi Pitch Climbing



Slings are in multi pitch climbing what quickdraws are in sport climbing. No doubt abut it.

Whether you're out for aid climbing or free climbing, a bunch of slings (various lengths) should be part of your gear just as the rope and harness are.

Here's why:

1. Equalizing the belay - It is advisable to equalize all the anchors in a belay as to distribute your weight evenly in all anchors. Should one anchor fail, the others will hold without taking the shock. Make sure each sling loop is independent after you equalize all the anchor points - this can be done with clove hitches or overhand knots.





Belay made with cams and nuts - equalized loop

2. Fluid running of the rope - The route rarely follows a straight line in alpine climbing. So two half ropes and long slings used as runners (quickdraws) are essential for reducing rope drag. Yes your falls will be longer (if you fall that is) but the rope will stretch on its entire length - this means a smaller shock both for you (lead climber) and the last anchor point.

3. A neat way of using poorly hammered pitons - On some older routes you will find pitons that are only hammered half way through. The pioneers used what they had - one size pegs made in the factories where they worked. If you clip your quickdraw into such a piton, it can pop out easily in case of a fall - the lever effect is so great that some may pop out just by hanging in. You can minimize the lever effect by making a simple prusik loop around the piton, close to the rock face - that's a neat usage of a sling.

Slings and Climbing Peg

4. Protection on sharp ridges - Don't you love rock spikes in a ridge? Those are your perfect anchors - hang slings with screw-gate carabiners around them and clip your rope in. Watch out for loose spikes though! Hit them with your fist as to asses whether they're strong or not before using them as anchor points.



Of course there are other ways you can use slings:
  • improvising a harness
  • using slings as foot loops in aid climbing 
  • miscellaneous usage in survival situations, etc.
Read The International Handbook of Technical Mountaineering for free here

Happy climbing!

Constantin Gabor & Mihai Sima

Piatra Craiului Mountain View

In Padina Inchisa - Piatra Craiului

Constantin Gabor & Mihai Sima

Mountaineering T shirt Design - I don't Complain

Download this drawing for your mountaineering T-shirt in SVG format

I hold great respect for elderly trekkers and mountaineers who seem to make no fuss about anything. They've got the wisdom of a lifetime and just go along doing their thing in a silent and peaceful way.

Let's stop whining about gear being expensive and having no fellows to go outdoors with. If you work on it you'll soon have everything you need ( a bunch of quality companions included).

My suggestion for printing your trekking T-Shirt or hoodie

You can use Inkscape to edit the SVG files - change colors, add extra text, add your logo, etc.

Get out there!

How To Avoid Windburn while Mountaineering in Winter Conditions


This is me after a three day snowshoeing, mountaineering and climbing tour in Fagaras Mountains...

Why do I look so terrible? Coz I was dumb, that's why! I didn't apply any sunscreen on my face - I had it in my kit though... - I didn't drink enough fluids - and I didn't wear a face cover (like a ski mask). It was warm, cold, sunny, overcast, windy and all these weather changes took their toll.

If you want to stay away from windburn check out these articles for more information on causes, symptoms and remedy:
More pictures from this mountain tour and other tours here and here.

Go outdoors and be safe!

Winter Mountaineering Tour in Dragus - Fagaras Mountains



Just before 2009 we had a window of clear weather that lasted about two weeks - it basically spanned from 2008 to 2009. It was freezing cold and the sky was clear, at least on the top of the mountains it was.

A seven hours hike brought us to the hunting cabin, up in Dragus Ridge - Fagaras Mountains, where we had our base camp. From there we hiked up on the ridge and took photos of the beautiful landscape.

This year the weather wasn't too great and thus we didn't have the opportunity to go there. Instead of snow and frost we only had rain and mild temperatures...

Here is a short list of useful things one should have when mountaineering in wintertime:
  • waterproof winter boots
  • vacuum flask with hot tea
  • mini stove (Primus)
  • snowshoes or cross country skis
  • gaiters
  • 4 season sleeping bag (filled with down or hollow fiber)
  • wind and waterproof pants and jacket
  • telescopic trekking poles
  • crampons
  • ice axe
View whole set of photos here, taken by Alex Scurtu.

Looking forward for some snow. Cheers!


Zanoaga Ridge

Winter Mountaineering Tour in Fagaras Mountains - Sambata (Cataveiu) Ridge

I’m a great fan of outdoor adventures, particularly those where trekking on unmarked trails is involved.

Few of my friends are as fond of this kind of tours as I am. Nevertheless, there is always one who doesn’t say no and, more than that, he proposes quite challenging trips – Georgel.

He’s the cute little boy of our group, very funny yet sometimes very annoying, bouldering addict, off trail hiker, former parkour runner, rebellious, awfully strong (8a boulderer, one arm pull-ups guy!), in short: a great chap.
This is one of the tours we made this winter (2009). We had perfect weather and visibility up on the ridge; low clouds, frosty wind (minus 10 degrees Celsius). Being fatigued and late risers, on the second day, we only climbed up to the half of the ridge, where there is a nice plateau with a cairn in the middle. The flat highland overlooks Sambata Valley, Fereastra Mare a Sambetei, Dragusului Ridge and could be a great spot for overnight camping; in wintertime, the cornices will do just a great as a wind shield for a bivouac.

On our descent, we saw a brown bear, a few hundred meters below us, on the opposite slope, across the valley, which we took as a returning trail.

Photos and video taken with phone camera.

Map of the area and trail - drag and scroll (with mouse) for zooming